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How to line, add pockets and a zipper to a crochet bag

So I finished crocheting my new bag and needed to line it so I could use it as a purse / handbag. I wanted pockets inside to keep phone, wallet, keys etc organized. I also wanted a zipper on top to keep everything safe inside.

Get my free crochet bag pattern here

I don’t sew so the whole task of lining this bag seemed really daunting at first.

I had to watch several Youtube videos over and over to learn what I needed. Since I picked up different bits of information from watching different videos, it made sense to make my own guide. So, this is how I lined my Fast-Forward Chevron Bag and now you can do it too!

You can also use these instructions to line other bags.

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How to line your bag

You will need:

  • Fabric
  • Zipper
  • Cotton thread including some similar to main color of your bag.
  • Sewing needle
  • Measuring tape
  • Ruler
  • Pencil/fabric marker
  • Iron
  • Fabric scissors
  • Pins
  • Stitch markers

Measure across the top opening of the bag. You need to buy a zipper that is at least 2 inches longer.

One yard of cotton fabric is plenty. I used plain green but you can use printed fabric if you like.

Start by ironing the fabric and zipper.

Lay your bag flat and measure the height.

Since we are going to fold the fabric over at the bottom of the bag you need twice the height. Plus an inch on each end for the seam allowance. My bag is 10 inches tall, so times 2, plus an each on each side, equals 22. Measure and cut the length of fabric.

If your fabric is too short you can use two smaller pieces with an additional seam allowance on the bottom. So I would have cut two pieces at 12″ tall then sewed them together along the bottom (if your fabric is printed the printed sides need to face each other).

Measure the width of the bag, add an inch on each side for the seam allowance. Cut the width of fabric.

I recommend using a ruler and pencil to mark along the seam lines (1″ in from the tops and sides) so you know where to sew.

Lay your zipper face DOWN. Lay your fabric on top of the zipper (Face DOWN if it’s printed). If your fabric is the same on both sides you might want to mark what is now the back.

Line one of the top seams up with the middle of the TOP half of the zipper. Make sure the zipper is overhanging at each side. Pin the fabric to the zipper.

Turn the whole thing over and sew straight down the line – be careful not to stretch or pucker either piece. If you are using a machine use the straight stitch setting and test it out on a scrap of fabric first.

Fold the fabric down away from the zipper and iron. Fold the bottom of the fabric over, print/front sides facing each other. Line the top seams up and iron a crease where the middle of the bag base will be.

Next we will make the inside pockets.

Since I was learning how to do this as I went along I sewed the other side of the zipper before I did the pockets. I learned it’s much easier to do the pockets before sewing the other side of the zipper so I’ll tell you how to do the pockets first.

I made two identical pockets for each side of my bag.

Measure the width of your bag base.

The bottom of the inside pockets need to be at least half the base width up from the bottom center fold. So, my base measures 4 inches. I divide this number by 2 so I measure a minimum of 2 inches either side of that center fold and mark the fabric. I measured about 2.5″.

Measure about 2 inches down from the top seams and mark. Measure between the the markings to find the height of the inner pockets. Cut the fabric to match the width of your bag (plus seam allowance) and TWICE the height of the pocket measurement.

Fold the pockets in half horizontally and iron so the fold becomes the top edge of the pockets.

Holding the bottom edge in place, flip the pocket panel down, make sure it’s lined up with the sides and pin in place. Sew the bottom of the pocket to the main lining. Repeat with other side.

Flip pockets back up and pin the sides. The pocket sides should be pinned where the side seam will be so that they are sewn in when we sew the sides of the lining up.

Place pins where you want the pockets to be divided. I split each pocket into three sections to make them the right size to fit my wallet, keys and phone.

I cut my main lining too wide so the sides of the pockets are pinned where the side seams will be.

Next we will sew down the divide lines. I used some small scraps of fabric folded in half and placed them behind the top of the pocket divides. This gives some reinforcement to prevent the lining from ripping when the pockets are used.

Back of the lining after pocket divides are sewn.

Sew down the divides going back and forth a few times at the top and bottom of the lines. Repeat for the other pocket.

When you have sewn the pocket divides, pin and then sew the other side of the zipper in the same way we did the first side.

Next we will close the sides. Line the sides up and pin. Move the pull on the zipper to the middle of the bag. Sew the sides closed making sure the sides of the inner pockets get caught when you sew the side seam. Sew back and forth across the zipper so the pull cannot go past the side seams. Trim excess zipper.

Sew across zipper to make a new end
Since I left a huge seam allowance I trimmed the excess fabric after I sewed the sides closed.

Next we box the bottom corners of the bag. Fold one of the bottom corners so the side seam lines up with the bottom crease. From the corner point measure in half of the base width (my base is 4″ so I measured 2″). Sew a line straight across. Repeat with the other bottom corner.

Sew a line to box the bottom corners
Finished lining

Now that the lining is finished we can get ready to put it into the bag.

Lay your bag flat and make sure the straps are lined up. Looking at the top edge of the bag, follow the line between the last and next to last row of crochet stitches and place stitch markers at each side of the bag.

Insert lining it to bag. Line the ends of the zipper up with the stitch makers. Pin in place. Following the line just under the last row of crochet and the seam between zipper and lining, pin all the way around. Be careful not to stretch or pucker either fabric.

Make sure it’s all straight. Then, using thread that’s the same color as the outside of the bag, start at one end of the zipper and hand sew all the way around. Use the crochet stitches as a guide on where to sew. Sew into the zipper as close to the lining as possible. Sew around two, maybe three times to get the join nice and tight.

Fasten off, weave in any ends, and you’re all done!

Resources / Links to videos:

Heart Hook Home – How to line and add zipper to crochet bag.

Needle Pointers – How to make inside pockets, how to box bottom corners

Crochet-crosia – Detail on how to sew lining into bag.

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7 thoughts on “How to line, add pockets and a zipper to a crochet bag

  1. Love how you help clarify doing the lining for hand bag I have 2 of them and that’s one of my WIPs
    Thank u

  2. Thank you for this detailed instructional page. And you even show how to add pockets. Awesome! I’v never lined a bag but now that I see your instructions, I feel that I can. Thanks 🙂

  3. Wow, I think this instructional is fantastic. I have never seen anyone do it so well. I cannot wait to make my bag so I can line it. Thank you so much.

  4. Instead of handstitching the liner to the bag I did two rows of machine stitching using a zipper foot to get close to the intersection of the lining and the zipper. It was much faster and I think the tighter stitches make it more secure and durable. I love my new bag. I see Christmas gifts to make in my future! Thanks for sharing such a great pattern!

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